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Saturday, March 10, 2012

A long update is in order. The last 10 days have been fantastically busy, full of silliness, magical moments, some chaos, and a few goodbyes. On the 6th a few volunteers and I took the bumpy 7 hour bud ride to celebrate Holi on the 7th in Kathmandu. Holi is a Hindu festival celebrating of the end of winter and the coming of spring and the monsoons. It also commemorates many events in Hindu mythology, but is the least religious Hindu festival yet the most enthusiastically celebrated. The day began with our own water and colored powder fight which some local and tourist kids joined in on. By the time we made it from the back alley of our guesthouse to the main street we were already caked in layers of power and drenched through our clothes. And we were the only ones. The locals were still clean, dry, and color free and staring at us. But not for long. We brought the Holi warfare with us wherever we went as well all singing, dancing, music, smiles, and whiskey. As we walked through Kathmandu we saw more and more people celebrating as excitedly as we were and joyously contributed to each others Holi outfits. By the end of the day we were all soaked, covered from head to toe in a rainbow of colored powder, and drunk off the happy excitement of the day, as well as the seemingly never ending flow of whiskey and beer. Though the late afternoon shower was far below room temperature, it was one of the most satisfying, though maybe not so effective considering my scalp is still stained days later. It was definitely a day to remember. 

I was back in Pokhara by the 8th to be present for ceremonies at the Monastery that the kids school is associated with. His holiness the 41st Sakya Trinzin Rinpoche, a Lama equal to the Dalai Lama but for a separate sect of Buddhism, was visiting Pokhara for opening ceremonies at this Monastery as well as a few schools in surrounding villages. It was very special to be in the presence of this man.  On the 9th, the staff, volunteers, and kids all went to listen to him speak and to be blessed by him. When we were there again on the following day to watch ritual dances, I asked someone how many people had been there the day before. He said about 40,000. The crowd was calm and respectful while Sakya was speaking, but turned to a mass of pushing and yelling once it came time to line up for being blessed. I became a human barrier protecting the kids from the crowd and helping make sure all 51 of them were safe and together. The monks were using huge bamboo rods and spraying water on the crowd to keep them under control. But we all got through safe, had a scarf placed around our necks by a monk then walked single file in front of the Lama where he tapped us each on the top of the head with what looked like a wooden rod as he said a prayer. Then were filed inside where we laid the scarf in front of and bowed to statues. Outside we were led down a row of tables where we were given special food and red strings to wear around our necks for the 3 days following the blessing. I am still asking questions about what all of these things meant, but even for someone unsure about what was going on, it was a very special moment and again something that I will always remember. But I definitely had a lot of questions afterwards. It was very interesting to see the monks holding clearly very expensive cameras taping the ceremony, then using water and bamboo rods as crowd control. And I couldn't help but wonder what the Lama thought of the pushing and shoving happening to be blessed by him when his duty is to spread love, compassion, and peace. I'm sure he is used to witnessing it, and maybe it doesn't phase him, and I also know that it is a question I will have to accept that I may not ever have an answer to. 

Going from the chaos of Holi in Kathmandu to the chaos of a blessing ceremony in Pokhara reminded me that there is truly craziness everywhere. Though much less in Nepal than back home. Time flows here and people rarely seem to be in a rush, yet the streets and crazy and very loud. It is a good lesson to learn for me, because I am able to relax through the craziness and quietly read my book. 

1 comment:

  1. how are you going to celebrate your birthday? what are Nepalese birthday customs?